Plumping gloss is a lip gloss that makes the lips look temporarily fuller, either through mild irritants such as menthol or capsicum that increase blood flow, or through humectants such as hyaluronic acid that swell the lip surface with water.
Also known as: lip plumper, plumping lip gloss, lip plumping gloss, tingling gloss
There are two mechanisms, and they feel different. Irritant plumpers use menthol, menthyl lactate, capsicum or capsaicin, cinnamon, ginger, methyl nicotinate or bee venom. They cause a tingle and a rush of blood that gives transient swelling. Dermatologist Dr Kung warns that tingling does not mean these glosses add real volume, and that frequent applications may cause irritant rashes (Yahoo Health). Gucci Gloss à Lèvres uses menthyl lactate, methyl nicotinate and Capsicum frutescens extract and has a tingling warning on the listing (Cult Beauty).
Hydration plumpers use humectants and film formers: hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate, polyglutamic acid and peptides. They draw water into the top layer of the lip so it looks smoother and slightly fuller, with no sting. Laneige Glaze Craze claims lips look 39 percent plumper immediately, based on a 30-woman self-assessment (Laneige). The market is moving toward this gentler type (Luoys).
Both effects are temporary. An irritant plump fades within an hour as blood flow settles. A hydration plump lasts as long as the film keeps water in, which is a few hours. Neither changes lip volume over time.
In the EU, a plumping claim must be substantiated under the common criteria for cosmetic claims, and products that tingle should warn the user. People with sensitive skin, eczema around the mouth or a history of cold sores do better with the hydration type. If a gloss causes swelling that persists, redness beyond the lip line or blistering, stop using it and see a GP or pharmacist.