In shortThe five classic cat eye nail designs are the single line, the diagonal, the curved or French line, the star and the all-over velvet. All five come from one bottle of magnetic polish. A bar magnet held straight, angled or at the tip makes the first three, a second pass at 90 degrees makes the star, and a round magnet held further away makes velvet.

A bottle of magnetic polish is a kit, not a colour. The pattern is not in the formula; it is in where the magnet is held, at what angle and for how long. Change those three things and the same deep violet gives a straight line on Monday, a diagonal on Wednesday and a soft velvet by the weekend.

These five patterns cover almost every cat-eye seen on the spring 2027 runways and in the 2026 trend lists, from the purple cat-eye with black lines at Christian Cowan to the jewel-tone velvets forecast for autumn.

Which cat eye nail designs can you make with one magnet?

Every pattern is the shape of the magnetic field where it meets the wet coat, so the magnet's edge and position draw the design. Vettsy's guide lists the flat bar for a sharp line or French tip, the cylinder for a wide velvet-like shimmer, the double-headed magnet for line and galaxy effects, and shaped magnets for flowers and zebra stripes (Vettsy). The five patterns need only a bar and a round end.

Five cat-eye patterns: the magnet, its position and the hold for each
PatternMagnetPosition over the wet coatHoldBest base
Single lineBarEdge across the nail, centred, 3 to 5 mm up15 to 20 s air-dry; 5 to 10 s gel, then flash-cureBlack or deep jewel tone
DiagonalBarEdge at 45 degrees from cuticle corner to opposite tipAs single lineDeep tone; mirror the angle on the other hand
Curved or FrenchBarEdge parallel to the free edge, 2 to 3 mm in from the tip, or tilted to follow the smile lineAs single lineAny deep tone; nude under for a French
Star or crossDouble-endedBar for a line, then the round end or a second bar pass turned 90 degrees, on a re-wetted coatTwo short holds in gel, flash-cure betweenBlack for the crispest star
Velvet all overRound or bar, from the sideParallel to the nail side, about 0.5 cm away, swept toward the centre from each sideOne to two sweeps per sideAny tone, including nude and pastel

The hold times are the ones given for gel by Vettsy and for air-dry lacquer by India Anaïs for its own magnet and cat-eye (Vettsy). Whatever the pattern, the magnet must reach the coat within about 20 seconds of painting it, one nail at a time.

How do you make the classic single-line cat-eye?

The single line is the pattern that gives the finish its name: one bright band down the centre of a dark nail, moving as the hand turns. It is the easiest to place and the hardest to hide mistakes in, because a line that is off-centre on one nail shows next to a centred one.

  1. Paint base coat and one thin coat of the cat-eye polish on all nails; let it dry.
  2. Paint a second coat on one nail and cap the free edge.
  3. Hold the bar magnet with its long edge across the nail, from side to side, centred between cuticle and tip, 3 to 5 mm above the polish.
  4. Keep it still for 15 to 20 seconds in air-dry lacquer, or 5 to 10 seconds and a flash cure in gel.
  5. Lift straight up, then repeat on the next nail.

For a vertical line, from cuticle to tip, turn the bar so its edge runs along the nail's length. The vertical line lengthens a short nail; the horizontal band widens a narrow one. Salomé Atelier's 3D and 9D labels describe how bold this band looks, from a thin defined stripe to a thick, highly reflective one (Salomé Atelier).

How do you make a diagonal cat-eye?

A diagonal cat-eye is a single line set at an angle, usually from one cuticle corner toward the opposite tip corner. It reads as movement even when the hand is still and it is the pattern most often photographed for social media.

Hold the bar magnet as for the single line, then rotate it to about 45 degrees before lowering it over the wet coat. Keep the same corner-to-corner direction on every nail of one hand, and mirror it on the other hand, so the two hands look like a pair. A ruler-straight diagonal needs a steady elbow; resting the forearm on the table helps more than any tool.

Two diagonals crossing on the same nail make an X, but only in gel, where the first line can be flash-cured before the coat is re-wetted for the second. In air-dry lacquer the second pass moves the flakes of the first, so keep to one diagonal per nail.

How do you make a curved or French cat-eye?

A curved cat-eye follows the arc of the free edge, like a glowing smile line. Held at the tip, it gives a French manicure where the white is replaced by a band of light, one of the cat-eye variations that Vettsy pairs with the square or rectangular magnet (Vettsy).

  1. Paint the second coat on one nail.
  2. Hold the bar magnet with its edge parallel to the free edge, 2 to 3 mm in from the tip and 3 to 5 mm above the polish.
  3. To curve the band, tilt the magnet so its edge follows the smile line, or use the curved side of a cylinder magnet.
  4. Hold for the usual time and lift.

Over a nude or milky base, the same move gives a soft French with a metallic glow in place of white. The 2026 trend for milky whites and micro French tips makes this the quietest way to wear a magnetic effect (Marie Claire).

How do you make a star or cross with a double magnet?

A star is two lines crossing, and it needs the flakes to be set twice. The first pass with the bar gives a line; a second pass at 90 degrees, with the round end or the bar turned, adds the cross. A double-ended tool, bar on one end and round on the other, such as India Anaïs The Magnet, is made for this. The first edition is sold out; the next is planned for spring 2027.

  1. In gel: paint the second coat, set the first line with the bar, flash-cure for about 10 seconds.
  2. Apply a very thin third coat, hold the round end or the turned bar over the centre for the second line, flash-cure again, then full-cure.
  3. In air-dry lacquer: set the first line for 15 seconds, then, while the coat is still liquid, turn the bar 90 degrees and hold for another 15 seconds. The result is a soft four-point flare.

Because the second pass in air-dry polish partly undoes the first, the air-dry star is a bloom of light with four soft arms, not a crisp cross. It suits a single accent nail. Vettsy describes the double-headed magnet as the tool for sharp lines and galaxy strips of this kind (Vettsy).

How do you make velvet all over?

Velvet is the pattern with no line. The magnet is held further away, so its field lifts the flakes gently across the whole nail and the surface glows softly from every angle, like crushed velvet. Vettsy's method is to hold the magnet parallel to the side of the nail about 0.5 cm away and sweep once or twice along each side toward the centre (Vettsy).

Velvet is the only one of the five patterns that works over pale and pastel bases, because it does not depend on the contrast of a single line. It is also the most forgiving: a wobble in the hand disappears into the glow. Some polishes, such as India Anaïs Velvet Nocturne, are pitched at this look from the start, with a plum base and a soft magnetic sheen.

For autumn 2026 manicurists put velvet and jewel-tone cat-eyes at the top of the list, in espresso, bronze, olive and deep plum (The Zoe Report). For spring 2027 the runways showed purple cat-eye at Christian Cowan and a metallic cat-eye zebra at Sergio Hudson (Bustle).

Key takeaways
  • One magnetic polish makes five patterns: single line, diagonal, curved or French, star and velvet.
  • A bar magnet held straight, at 45 degrees or at the tip gives the three line patterns; a second pass at 90 degrees gives a star.
  • Velvet comes from holding the magnet about 0.5 cm away and sweeping from each side toward the centre.
  • Line patterns need a dark or jewel-tone base; velvet works over any colour, including nude.
  • Set each nail within 20 seconds of painting it, and mirror diagonals across the two hands.

Questions people ask

What is the easiest cat eye nail design for beginners?

Velvet, because it has no line to place and a wobble disappears into the glow. Hold the magnet about 0.5 cm from the side of the nail and sweep toward the centre. The single horizontal line is the next easiest.

How do you do a diagonal cat eye?

Set the bar magnet at about 45 degrees, from one cuticle corner toward the opposite tip corner, 3 to 5 mm above the wet second coat, and hold it still. Keep the same direction on each nail of a hand and mirror it on the other hand.

Can you do a cat eye French tip?

Yes. Hold the bar magnet with its edge parallel to the free edge, 2 to 3 mm in from the tip, and the band forms a glowing smile line. Over a nude or milky base it reads as a French manicure with light in place of white.

How do you make a star with cat eye polish?

Set a line with the bar, then add a second pass turned 90 degrees. In gel, flash-cure between the two passes for a crisp cross. In air-dry polish the second pass softens the first, so the result is a four-point flare, best on one accent nail.

Which cat eye colours are in fashion for 2026 and 2027?

Autumn 2026 trend lists name jewel-tone cat-eyes and velvet in plum, espresso, bronze and olive. The spring 2027 runways showed purple cat-eye press-ons at Christian Cowan and a metallic cat-eye zebra at Sergio Hudson.